Fabric Weight Needle
Type
Needle
Size
Thread
Size
Stitch
Per
Inch (cm)
Suggested Thread
Woven Fabrics
Satin Extra Light Sharp/
Microtex
60, 65
(8, 9)
16, 18, 21, 24 14-20 (6-8) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Fine
Mettler Seralene or Poly Sheen
Petal Signature Cotton® Light Universal 70, 75
(10, 11)
24, 27, 30 10-14 (4-6) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Coats 100% Cotton
Mettler Poly Sheen, Seracor, or Seralene
Gütermann Sew-all Thread or Natural Cotton
Cotton
Poplin
Extra Light  Universal 60,65 (8.9) 16,18,
21,24
14-20 (6-8) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Fine
Mettler Seralene, Poly Sheen, Silk Finish Cotton 60
Gütermann Natural Cotton
Chiffon Extra Light Microtex 70
(10)
50 11-13 (5-6) Gütermann all-purpose polyester
Organic
Sweet Pea Gauze®
Light Universal 80 (12) 50 9-11 (4-5) Gütermann all-purpose polyester
Poly Crepe
de Chine
Extra Light Sharp/
Microtex
60, 65
(8, 9)
16, 18, 21, 24 14-20 (6-8) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Fine
Mettler Seralene or Poly Sheen
Linen 
Cotton
Canvas
Medium Universal
Denim/
Jeans
80, 90, 100
(12, 14, 16)
30, 35, 40 10-12 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seracor, Seralon, Silk Finish Cotton 40, or 50
Gütermann Sew-All Thread or Extra Strong
Lightweight Cotton Twill Medium Universal 80, 90 24, 27, 30 8-10 (3-4) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose
Mettler Seracor or Seralon 30
Gütermann Sew-All Thread 
Organic
Cotton
Sateen
Light  Universal 70, 75
(10, 11)
24, 27, 30 10-14 (4-6) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Coats 100% Cotton
Mettler Poly Sheen, Seracor, or Seralene
Gütermann Sew-all Thread or Natural Cotton
 
Knit Fabrics 

Performance
Piqué

Light Ball Point
/Stretch
70, 75
(10, 11)
24, 27, 30 14-18 (6-7) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose
Mettler Poly Sheen, Seracor, or Seralene
Gütermann Sew-all Thread
Modern
Jersey
Medium Stretch 80, 90, 100
(12, 14, 16)
30, 35, 40 10-12 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose
Mettler Seralon, Poly Sheen, Seracor, Seraflock
Cotton
Spandex
Jersey
Light Stretch 70, 75
(10, 11)
24, 27, 30 10-12 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Coats 100% Cotton
Mettler Poly Sheen, Seracor, or Seralene
Gütermann Sew-all Thread or Natural Cotton
Organic
Cotton
Knit 
Light Ball Point 70, 75
(10, 11)
24, 27, 30   10-12 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Coats 100% Cotton
Mettler Poly Sheen, Seracor, or Seralene
Gütermann Sew-all Thread or Natural Cotton
Fleece Medium Ball Point
/Universal
80, 90, 100
(12, 14, 16)
30, 35, 40 10-12 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seralon, Poly Sheen, Seracor, or Seraflock
Gütermann Sew-all Thread
Minky Medium Ball Point
/Stretch
80, 90, 100
(12, 14, 16)
30, 35, 40 10-12 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seralon, Poly Sheen, Seracor, or Seraflock
Gütermann Sew-all Thread
Sport Lycra

Medium

Heavy

Stretch 100, 110
(16, 18)
40, 45, 50, 60 10-12 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seralon 30 or Seraflock
       
Upholstery Fabrics
Dogwood Denim™

Medium

Heavy

Universal
Denim/
Jeans
100, 110
(16, 18)
40, 45, 50, 60 8-10 (3-4) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seracor, Seralon 30, or Silk Finish Cotton 28
Gütermann Sew-All Thread or Extra Strong
Recycled
Canvas
Medium
Heavy
Universal
Denim/
Jeans
100, 110
(16, 18)
40, 45, 50, 60 8-10 (3-4) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seracor or Seralon 30
Gütermann Sew-All Thread or Extra Strong

Cypress Cotton
Canvas

Medium
Heavy

Universal
Denim/
Jeans
90 (14)  50 

 9-11 (4-5)

Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seracor or Seralon 30
Gütermann Sew-All Thread or Extra Strong

Belgian Linen™

Medium
Heavy

Universal
Denim/
Jeans
90, 100 (14, 16)  30, 35, 40 10-12 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seracor, Seralon, Silk Finish Cotton 40, or 50
Gütermann Sew-All Thread or Extra Strong

Celosia Velvet™

Medium
Heavy

Universal
Denim/
Jeans
90 (14)  50 9-11 (4-5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose or Dual Duty XP Heavy
Mettler Seracor or Seralon 30
Gütermann Sew-All Thread or Extra Strong

Performance Velvet

Medium
Heavy

Universal
Denim/
Jeans
90, 110 (14)  40, 45, 50 10 - 12 (4 - 5) Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP General Purpose
Mettler Seracor or Seralon 30
Gütermann Sew-All Thread 

 

See Also: Fabric Specifications and Details